The process of choosing a size, then following the instructions for that size is only useful if, when you knit your sweater with your needles and your yarn, you achieve the stitch gauge given in the pattern. We have handpicked these unique patterns because they offer novice knitters tips and techniques on how to knit a sweater as well as challenging the seasoned expert.
The Tweed Cardigan
Because, as you know, I really struggle with money, living in my overdraft month to month. Maybe, just maybe, another book purchase will help turn it all around?? Jan has many talents mainly towards teaching children how to be their best selves. As a Relax Kids coach, Jan helps children to manage their emotions through techniques taught in fun workshops. Featuring on YouTube channel 'Storytime Bonding', Jan is part of a campaign to encourage shared reading with babies and children.
Leading the way for children to read for pleasure, and have a very strong base for success in life. Volunteering for the Beanstalk charity as a reading helper continues that purpose. Prior to the twins being born, Jan was a Software Engineer. Code Clubs enable Jan to share that knowledge and experience with the next generation of coders. In her spare time, Jan enjoys painting murals, journalling, sewing, knitting and crocheting items, some of which are made for charity.
View all posts by HandMadebyJanx. Lovely jumper made for my Bulldog fits perfectly. Very reasonably priced I also had a choice of colours. Have already put another order in as so pleased with the finished product many thanks.
This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Thank you again for your help! The yarn has to be carried back across the garter panel, creating a rather long float in the back. Hi,really like this pattern. Hi Kristine- for a higher neckline I would recommend casting on fewer sts and then increasing those sts in the first increase round. The yoke depth is adjustable by knitting more rounds after the raglan increases are complete. Do I knot until reaching stich 15 and then purl?
And then purl unti I reach stitch 34? And what does the twcie stand for? Thank you for your help, English is my second language and I am trying to learn how to read the pattern properly. Hi Ariane — You want to purl 15 sts, place a marker,knit 34 sts, place a marker, purl 15 sts, place a marker then knit 34 sts, that should take you to the end of the round.
What would be the best cast on for the neck band? Complexity is not an issue for me. Stretchy or less stretchy? Hello, I have one big problem. I start everything ok but later my raglan marker BOR one loose perfect shape. What do I do wrong? Is BOR one of the markers front or back or is just to show the round start? Hi Marta — there should be 4 markers total, one indicates the beginning of round as well as being a raglan marker. I am making the Flax in 4xl and have to go from 96 stitches and add If I divide that comes to 1.
How do I make the increases evenly? Thank you so much for the pattern and lessons. Hi Heather — you want to work [k1, m1, k2, m1] a total of 28 times you will have 12 sts leftover , so glad you like the sweater! However, I am having a bit of a problem with knitting the increases after the neck ribbing. How do I space them out?
First time knitting a jumper and I need some help! I thought this would lose the pattern from the kfb, knit, kfb section on the yoke? How and where do I add the yarn? Do you have another tutorial regarding sleeves on your blog?
Eek, can someone please respond to this question? We have tried out best to explain with pictures in the blog post. You are placing your live sts on your DPNs, then, to start with new yarn you just leave a long tail and start working with it. Can you reuse the yarn from a swatch that you already wet blocked to make another swatch if the gauging is off?
Hi Alycia — good question. Hello This is my first time here on this site, my question is when you do the yoke and you do the the number Then you go down to the Marker Setup, where do you put markers at? Your total will be 98, so I am a little bit confused on this. You are slipping your markers as you come to them, so they will still be in your work after the set up round….
As a result the marker placed at the end of the set up row k20 is on the tip of the needle. Do you have a suggested strategy for this? Shuffle the stitches along the needles? You may want to make sure the cast on is stretchy enough to go over a little ones head. If not, cast on 4 more sts and skip 4 decreases on the increase round. All of the explanations have cleared up lots of questions. This is such a fun sweater.
I am working the yoke and just realized that for the first 3 sets I increased by 8 on even and odd rows…do I have to back up? Hi Laura — it kind of depends how fussy you are as a knitter. I would just keep going and start working the increases on every OTHER round you may need additional rounds at the end of the yoke to get the depth you desire.
Living in Australia worsted is not a term used when talking about yarn. I am hoping worsted would be referring to what we would call both DK double knitting or 8ply normally knitted using size 10 3. Hoping i am presuming correctly.
Cheers and thanks Anne. The important thing is that you get the gauge the pattern suggests and a fabric you like! The Flax sweater is 18 sts per 4 inches and the Flax Light is 24 sts per 4 inches. In Aussie terms, worsted is 10ply yarn or yarn that you can knit on 5mm needles US size 10 needles. But as Alexa said, gauge is more important. Hi EE, did you only use 4. I have a heap of 8ply yarn that I want to use and I am trying to work out which needles I need: OMG thank you so much for this fabulously ready to follow tutorial.
It makes instructions so so easy. I am now excited to try and knit this sweater in the round. I am a newbie and just finished the Flax ribbed collar and am ready to do increases…. Can I use Kfb here to increase? If you are working a kfb you will need to work 1 st, kfb, 2 sts, kfb because that type of increase uses a stitch to create a stitch.
I usually use a bar increase m1 , which does not use a stitch to make a stitch. I am currently finishing the yoke on my first Flax Light pattern but I have encountered a problem. When I have completed the 21 rounds I am doing size S-M , I keep ending up with too few stitches cast on.
It states I should have I have undone my work 3 times and re-done it and this has happened to me 3 times. Oh my goodness, thank you! How did I miss this? Really appreciate you taking the time to reply.
If your round gauge matches that stated in the patter, you will need to work 6 4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 8, 4, 2, 0, 0 rounds even. If not you will work as many rows as necessary for your yoke to measure 5 5, 5. Hi — I think you need to refer to the paragraph before that in the pattern. There it states how many increases you should have worked and how many total stitches you should have. Love this sweater but neck but I prefer a larger neck opening.
Would I cast on more stiches and work fewer rows in the yoke? Hello and thank you for this great pattern and tutorial! I am currently paused on the project due to the sleeves! I ended up with a very large sleeve I prefer relatively tight sleeves! I did try to use stitch markers to determine where i was to decrease. I have taken out my work several times on this cause its just not turning out like i want.
Any pointers would be so appreciated: Hi Leah — you want to start with the shorter needles where you have fewer sts and switch to the longer circulars when it gets too squishy when you have too many sts on the needles.
When the pattern calls for smaller and larger needles, that refers to the US 2 vs US 5. Sweaters from the top down or the bottom up do tend to require more needles than the average project, since it is ultimately an item with so many different sized tubes. Sorry if this has been asked before, what other yarns can be used to knit this? Hi — both of those are great options, you want a Worsted weight yarn, preferably in a natural fiber. Ready to start sleeves. Just wondering what this does for the pattern?
Loving the ease of this pattern. Are you asking about the order of the pickup? Happy to answer any questions! Also why woul you not join the new yarn where you want the new BOR to start center of underarm? I also find having the working yarn at the side of the underarm join is better for sewing up any little holes that might come up at the pick up, especially in a sweater aimed at beginners.
Hello, I have made the flax sweater and love the pattern as it is very easy and turns out beautiful. He will be 39 this year and has wanted an Apaca sweater for a very long time.
I have the alpaca yarn but it calls for a size 6 needle. I am not so accomplished that I know whether I can adjust this pattern to make it work with a size 6 needle.
He has a Can this be done? Thank you in advance. Hi Ann — you will have to do a gauge swatch, then you can decide if you need to go up a size or 2. Hi Alexa, I did a gauge swatch in the round first time and I get 7 stitches per inch vertically and horizontally. How would I figure out how many sizes I would need to go up to make this work… Thank you so much.
When working the Flax sweater, it says to put a marker before and after the garter panel when doing the marker setup. The stockinette sts in the sleeves outside of the garter panel will increase, but the garter panel will remain in the same spot.
Thank you for helping with this pattern. I am still wondering if the increases are correct. According to other patterns I have made similar to this one, you do the increases as follows:. Can this pattern be done this way? The garter panel is confusing to me. I like it and would like to use it, but I am having too much trouble with the increases. I have ripped it out 3 times. Hi — The increases are exactly as you have said: The rounds with increases are all knit, the rounds with purl for the garter section have no increases in them.
Love the Flax pattern, but neck opening too big made year old size. Should I cast on fewer stitches or use smaller needles next time? Is there any way to fix it now without flogging the whole thing? This pattern is awesome and knit up so quick! I would say smaller needles, and you could also cast on fewer sts and just increase them in the increase round before the raglan starts. Its my first sweater!
But I wondered that the pictures of the finished pullover seem to show an even encreasing line going through all the rounds… Does it just look even allthough every second stich in the increase line is a non-increase stitch? So, could you pleease make a suggestion what to do now? Should i just stopp increasing and knit until the yoke meets my measurements or should i unpick some rows…?
Round means from beginning to end, right? I am making the Flax child top down raglan. I have an issue with the size of needles when casting on for the neck area. What do you suggest? Or double pointed needles if you have them.
My other problem is, at the start of the Setup round 1: Ok, if I start kfb, which is the garter section, that would mean I am increasing in the garter sleeve, therefore, it would keep putting more garter sts in the garter section. Please explain what I am understanding wrong. Hi — You are working increases in the sleeve, but you are just working the garter over the same number of sts every round.
The pattern says to knit until the yoke is 9. Once the raglan section is complete you are knitting straight, no increases. When measuring the yoke, mine should be 9. Hello I must really love this pattern: Is there something missing in the directions? Do I increase 1 stich before marker and 1 stitch after marker? Thank you in advance! You are going to knit to 1 stitch before the marker, m1, k1, slip marker, k1, m1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, etc.
Thank you for the pattern! Hi, I recently finished this sweater. I notice that the neckline comes up a bit too high — just over the hollow spot in my neck. How do I fix this? If I pull it down, the neckline fits better, but every time I raise my arms it goes back up high. I did block it already, but I suppose I could try again.
Hi Haley — it sounds like there are too many rows in the yoke for your liking. This might mean you need to re-do the yoke. If it is a bottom up sweater you can undo your bind off and take the yoke down it really depends on the sweater to find the best place to do that. Hi Elizabeth — to make the neck opening smaller you would need to cast on fewer stitches and make up the difference in the increase round after the ribbing.
Can I cast on with larger needles, knit some stockinette rows, and then change to smaller needles and do ribbing as though I am at the beginning of your pattern? I really like the roll neck, and it would reduce the apparent size of the opening without changing the actual measurements?
I have browsed many beginner sweaters, and this is the one I have chosen. However because it is my first sweater and the high probability for inevitable mistakes , I do not want to buy really expensive yarn. Do you have any other suggestions for yarn that are not as expensive?
Cascade is always a good one, I would strongly recommend a yarn that is blockable ie. But what I really want is sweaters!!! I was going to make sweaters for my whole family with this if I could get it going… but I have no idea where to start… what is with all the numbers? How do I read the pattern with all the numbers? Is there a video on anyone knitting this up? There is one on a bottom up sweater from knitpicks, but I liked how yours was more simple with a chart, and I liked the top down aspect….
Thank you so much, I really want to get started on sweaters! I am a sweater lover and this would really make me so happy. Hi Amanda — are you asking about the brackets? If you are knitting for a 3 year old you either want the or the size depending on how big a 3 year old you have and how much room to grow you want, and how long you expect it to take to complete the sweater , the is the 4th size and the is the 5th size.
So, when the pattern says to cast on 56 62, 68, 74, 74, 76, 78, 86, 86, 86, 86, 90, 90, 90, 96, 96, 96 sts, you will cast on 74 or 76 stitches depending on which size you choose to knit. The Pattern says yrs slot, work 6 rounds even. If gauge is different then work till yoke measures 5. And what directions should I follow? Further info that might be helpful- I do meet the stitch numbers as well.
My other questions are: I think I worked out ok as my stitch number is correct, but is this really in rounds or sections? A round is a row in circle knitting right? I am so sorry this is horrendously long!
Please be patient with me: Thank you so much for answering the questions people have written. Hi — okay, so you want to follow the pattern, but I have made the pattern and tutorial consistent now in yoke depth they were coming out a smidge long so we did adjust the pattern. I measure the depth straight down the front. You are working a kfb increase in the first stitch after a marker and the second to last stitch before a marker.
You are always slipping you markers as you come to them. I usually use an m1 increase. If you are getting a hole you might be working them the wrong way ie. Ok I just finished the marker setup and have all my PM in. I understand Setup round 1 and 2 establish the garter stitch sleeve. And then work as set I assume means to stockinette stitch the front and back and then purl or knit the sleeves….
You are increasing 2 stitches in each section, 2 on the front, 2 on the back, and 2 on each sleeve. For round 2, you are going to knit everything except the garter panels on the sleeves, those sts will be purled. Hi Devon — I use my tail and just put in 1 or 2 whip stitches on the wrong side of the work to close it up.
I am confused by the difference between numbers in the pattern and the tutorial — I am knitting a mos and the pattern says to cas on 88 stitches while the tutorial says 62…which one is it?
Hi David — are you possibly knitting the Flax Light? The numbers will be different but the concepts will be the same. Second, what does PM mean? Hello and thank you for this beautiful pattern! I have one quick question. First the pattern has us do the setup round 1 and setup round 2 and then the instructions for the round 1 and round 2 that will be repeated.
Thank you thank you thank you! I have been going mad about why my total cast on after 8 increases of raglan sums up to 8 too few sts. I counted the setup rounds in the total 8. But now I know better! Thanks for the pattern and the time you take to help us. My sleeve sections have the proper number of stitches, but one of the other sections only has Should I increase one more stitch when I work the even section, or is it okay because the sleeve sections are the same?
Hi Noreen — One stitch is non critical. You can add it in or leave it alone, knitters choice! What a wonderful website! Great to have so many people returning to knitting and even better for the beginners, as you very clearly direct and encourage them. Do I swatch on dpns, or knit flat? Hi Katie — good point, swatching in the round is ideal. I would cast on at least 24 for a swatch though. I want to double check that I start to cast on, on the shorter needles.
I will however need to switch to longer needles, as this jumper will be big. This is the first time I have knitted a sweater, so I am not sure how or when I need to switch to longer circular needles. Can you please advise? Hi Karen — you are switching to the longer needles when the shorter ones become too squishy too many stitches on them. This is a really wonderful tutorial, especially for someone who is just now working on their very first sweater! I just have a question about the beginning.
Hi Cindy — I would try a bit of a looser cast on, it should fit around the 16 inch just barely to start. I just finished the Harvest cardigan and was really happy how it turned out.
I want to make it a little more boxy than fitted also. Hi Rina — we have both a worsted and a fingering weight version for the Flax sweater, I think with a Sport you would want to follow the fingering weight version per pattern. It may turn out a titch bigger because sport is a little heavier than fingering but if you are looking for a looser fit that is fine anyways. I wanted to knit this as a lighter summer garment, so I went with Flax Light but have a question: Hi — so glad you like it!
You want something sizes smaller for the ribbing so go with a 0. I realized that 2 was the smallest set of DPNs I had and decided to order 1 and 0 circular needles to try out just in case. Thank you so much for getting back to me: Unfortunately, I have another problem now: Size S collar 86 sts, increase 18 I knit 4 sts and after that 1 new sts and I repeat 18 times, of course not one increase by another , when do I start to increase?? The first setup round together with increase for raglan?
Or I have to add only raglan in the 1st setup? Hi Marta — I think yo may be overthinking it a bit. There is an increase round, where you are working your 18 increases, then you start the raglan increases. Hmm, sounds like you have it going inside out? If you email me a pic I might be able to figure it out!
Yes I realized after I posted that I was doing exactly that! My join is very obvious. Do you mean your sleeve pick up? You are picking up your stitches that were formerly on waste yarn, so all but the underarm should be seamless completely.
For the underarm you can always pick up a couple of extra stitches and decrease them on the next round to close the gap. The tutorials are very helpful. Will sticking with the 5 mm create a roomier ribbing? Hi Vanessa — so glad you like the Flax! Hi Barbara — do you mean that you have finished the collar or the yoke?
I just started knitting in February and my dream is to someday knit myself a sweater. I just found your Simple Collection and I love it.
I think I might actually be able to do this! Hope to start very soon. When knitting even, raglan disappears! When working even, all stitches look the same, raglan disappears! The raglan does stop when you work even, I suppose you could increase and then decrease but it will look different still.
I have read through the above and feel I will stick to traditional ways of knitting. Maybe I am set in my ways, but there are many other wonderful patterns on your website to choose from I have studied, with beautiful results, I hasten to add. With best wishes for all those who wish to encourage knitting and traditional crafts.
This is my first sweater but I am stuggling with what needles to use where, I understood the required needles were a circular 16inch in US 4 and a 32 inch circular needle in US 4 and a set of dbl pointed needles in 4.
Did I miss understand this or am I missing when to change over? I fninshed the yoke but it is 3 inch shorter but I have been using a 4US 16 and the 32 inch circular needles for it….. Just a quick note to say thank you for the pattern.
Yes it is my first jumper and I am onto the body, so as you say miles of knit knit knit 0: No real problems apart from gauge but you did tell me to knit a swatch……. Nonetheless I am enjoying it, not been knitting for long, granny squares, scarf, hats and then onto Kate Davies Rams and Yowes followed by, just finished, tir chonail blanket and thought enough with the blankets, sweater time and yours is just the ticket.
I have used Jamiesons of Shetland Autumn tweed, which though an aran may be a little thinner than others hence my troubles with sizing.
Much love to you and yours, Cornelius. Hi — thanks in advance for your help. My first question — after completing Setup round I counted my increases within the garter stitch section. I am working on the smallest size sweater so there are twelve stitches. The instructions say that I should only have ten stitches. Is this a typo or have I misunderstood? Second question — I started Setup round 2 by doing a k1, p10, k1 for the garter stitch section.
The instructions do not tell me to knit straight in the next section and then repeat this in the garter section. I know this is simple. Thanks for helping me understand. You will be knitting 1 stitch, purling 10, and knitting 1 on the next round. I forgot to put a BOR marker for my sleeve and now I cant quite figure out where to put the maker to start my decrease round.
Work rounds a total of 15 times. Every other round increasing, but every even round keeping panel? Any explanation would be appreciated! Also, if done by increasing every round not every other , would it be acceptable to knit even every round keeping panel after the 15 increase rounds to achieve the correct measurement from CO?
Thank you for this free pattern! I just knitted this, my first sweater, for my one year old nephew and the pattern was so clear and easy to follow. Or does it not matter? I might work a makepurlwise if you were keeping it in reverse stockinette, rather than garter. I am knitting the yo size. There is only one stitch between my garter panel marker and my raglan marker. What do I do? Thanks for the great pattern, I am a little confused by the increase part — sorry.
I thought the increase was after the garter panel at the beginning of stocking stitch the front and back panel. In the round I only seem to increase four stitches rather than the 8. Can you explain how you increase in the garter if we are to keep this panel at 20 stitches. I am knitting the gents size L. I am a very new knitter. Does this mean that the first two stitches on the garter are kfb, knit? So do you purl only 20 on the next round of the garter stitch. Hi Tracey — you are increasing on either side of the marker, so, m1, k1, slip marker, k1, m1 at each marker.
My chest measurement is smaller than my hip measurement and your instructions call for the chest measurement when the graphic seems to instruct to measure toward your hips at the bottom of the sweater. This is a difference in size for me. I am in love with this pattern and get tons and tons of compliments from all the moms-to-be who receive it — thanks for making me a star! In all seriousness — I would like to try something new with it and need advice — I would like to do the body, collar and cuffs one color and the sleeves another.
Or is this craziness and maybe I should just look at stripes? You can easily do the sleeves in a different colour starting from the sleeve split, but otherwise you would need to work it back and forth and seam it up at the end. When you start the increasing of the yoke, it say increase rows 20 for large times. Is that 20 per each 1 and 2 row? Where did I go wrong? Hi Miss Cale — for the Flax sweater you are working row 1 and 2 20 times for your size, that means round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2, round 1, round 2.
The math works out, you will have the right number of stitches! Remember that you are working 8 increases every other round. Are you increasing 8 sts on the increase rounds either side of the marker …maybe email us with a picture? I found your Flax pattern on Ravelry and thought why not!
The Vienne Sweater
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